Wednesday, January 30, 2013

Strolling from Bondi to Bronte

When they heard I was going to Sydney, numerous friends recommended taking the 6 km clifftop walk from Bondi Beach to Coogee. I looked it up in the guide book, and yeah, it sounded good. Well, nothing prepared me for how spectacular it is. It was one of those strolls where I not only had to take pictures of everything, the kids were so engaged in the rocks and sights that they didn't mind stopping often. It was the kind of trail that might actually inspire me to lace up my running shoes and go jogging. (Let me tell you, that thought is rarer than a penguin in Penang.) As it was, we took so long pausing to enjoy ourselves that we only made it partway, and after taking 2 hours to cover what was supposed to take only 30 minutes, decided to stop at Bronte Beach.

New Year's Day was bright, sunny, and perfect for heading to the beach in Sydney. Thousands and thousands of other folks had the same idea. So, when we arrived at Bondi, we found the sand covered in what can only be called "a mass of humanity."

People baking in the sun at Sydney's Bondi Beach

Bondi has so much to offer in addition to the sand and surf. Tons of restaurants and shops line the street leading up to the beach. We paused at a skate park near the water to watch guys glide up and down the cement bowls. Much to my kids' dismay, getting into the surf wasn't in the plans for this hiking trip. Later, we were quite glad about this decision.

From Bondi, we took off on the paved trail -- well, okay, it's pretty much a sidewalk -- down the coastline. First up was the famous Bondi Icebergs Swim Club and Bistro. Being New Year's Day, quite a party was already going on in the middle of the afternoon. Or maybe that's what it's always like. Past that, I began to appreciate the natural beauty of the area. I could see why the aborigines named the area "Bondi" which means "water breaking over rocks." Do Sydneysiders know how lucky they are to have gorgeous beaches, aquamarine water and cool rock formations so close to the center of town?


Climbing up beside the footpath past Bondi Icebergs


Looking back at Bondi Beach with water breaking over rocks

As we started rounding the headlands at Marks Park, we heard a loud siren coming from the beach. Turning back, we saw a bright, yellow and red, Surf Patrol boat moving back and forth along the shore, and people started running out of the water. A smaller boat assisted with the stubborn surfers who initially refused to exit. Up above, a helicopter swooped in and started patroling, too. After a while, a news helicopter joined it. What in the world was going on? When we got back to the hotel, we discovered that a 2 meter long shark had been spotted in the water near Bondi. They suspect that this was the same shark that had taken a big bite out of a lifeguard's surfboard a couple days earlier. Thirty minutes later, the all clear sounded, and people were permitted to get back in the surf. (But seriously, if it were me, that would have been the end of playing in the water. Would you be brave enough to get back in?)



Walking from Bondi Beach towards Marks Park


The next beach is MacKenzie's, named after the nearby MacKenzie's Point. It's one of the smallest beaches in New South Wales and is only accessible at low tide. Because there's alway a rip, swimming is not recommended, but it seemed like many folks didn't really care. A few surfers were also threading their way through the rocky, shallow water.


MacKenzie's Beach is only revealed at low tide.
Tamarama Beach is in the upper, left corner.

Tamarama Beach is only 100 meters past MacKenzie's. We ended up spending most of our time here watching all the sporty action on the beach as well as enjoying the playground in the pocket park. The kids got a big kick using all the fitness equipment set up next to the path, too. After spending the past year in Malaysia where people don't drink the tap water, and you have to buy the bottled stuff at restaurants, I was quite excited to see a Drinking Water station for us to refill water bottles. For free! My admiration for Sydney continued to grow.


Tamarama Beach

Our last stop was Bronte Beach. It is home to the Bronte Surf Lifesaving Club which was established in 1903 and is the oldest surf lifesaving club in the world. After our 2 km trek, the kids were ready for a snack. My friend, a former Sydneysider, highly recommended dining at one of the cafes across the street, but alas, the kids had their eyes locked on the ice cream at the beachside concession stand. Picnic blankets covered the grass of the park behind the beach, and folks busily grilled their holiday meals. I could see another playground at the back of the park, but we were ready to head back to the hotel at this point. We strolled through the tall Norfolk pines up to the bus stop to catch a ride to Bondi Junction railway station and bus terminal. While we didn't make it all the way to Coogee as I had planned, this walk was definitely all about the journey and not the destination.


Bronte Beach

Bronte Beach was much less crowded than Bondi and, as a bonus, had no shark sightings this day.

If you are planning to take this stroll, check out The Bondi to Coogee Walk website for practical information about the trail, beaches and nearby restaurants. While the footpath does include some steep steps, you can carry a lightweight stroller up it if need be.


This post is part of Travel Photo Thursday on Budget Travelers Sandbox, Travel Photo Mondays at Travel Photo Discovery, and Friday Daydreamin' at R We There Yet Mom? Check them out for more around-the-world travel inspiration.


22 comments:

  1. I've always wanted to do this walk but we never seem to be in Sydney long enough. It looks lovely! I love the idea of a beach that's only accessible at low tide. Glad you had such a nice time. Isn't it funny how grateful you can be for drinkable tap water when you are out walking!

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  2. Wow, too many people on that beach for me. You could barely even move without stepping over someone.

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  3. I have not done it but have heard so much about it. I would definitely go back into the water, they would get everyone back out again if the shark returned. I do think that Sydneysiders know how lucky they are with their beaches and I suspect they are very proud of them. I do not think I would like to be part of that mass of humanity on New Year's Day though. I am definitely doing this walk next time I am in Sydney.

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  4. Wow what a mass of humanity!! I think I would skip the beach that day. Now the shark sighting is kinda cool, not to be in the water, but to see if you could capture it with your camera :). I remember there was a shark sighting on a beach in Florida when I was there and I ran to get my telephoto lens and tried to see if I could find it in the water. The lifeguards weren't too happy with me, but I got my shot!! I too love the idea of a beach that is only seen at low tide, how cool. If I ever make it to Australia I would like to make this hike a part of my travels.

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    1. An actual shark shot would indeed be cool. I'd love to see yours on your blog sometime.

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  5. You've convinced me to add this to our future's list for Australia! Loved the story and photos.

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  6. Thank you for the interesting article! As always, I enjoyed viewing the pictures...

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  7. I'm glad you had time to do this walk. It really is one of the best walks in Sydney. In November they have an event called Sculture by the Sea which has different sculptures dotted along the walk. It's a stunning sight. You might have to come back!!

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    1. Sculpture by the Sea sounds fantastic. We'd probably move even slower than the 1 km/hr that we did on this day.

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  8. I have heard so many good things about Bondi Beach and this walk that I wouldn't dare miss it if I was in Sydney! Beautiful pictures.

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  9. Sharks - yikes! I probably wouldn't be brave enough to go back in, but I would love to spend some time on that beach. Actually, the whole hike sounds good to me. Great pics showing what Bondi and Bronte have to offer.

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  10. What a great walk! I'm sure you were (more than) pleased that your kids weren't in the water when that siren went off! (I laughed at your expression "rarer than a penquin in Penang") :)

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  11. Sounds like an amazing hike! Imagine how terrifying it would be to be in that water with all that chaos. You wouldn't get me out fast enough and NO, I would never get back in! :)

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  12. This sounds like a great walk and the kids look happy and content :) What a huge difference this is from my image of Bondi. We were there on a November weekday and it was empty. I really like that MacKenzie's Beach. No, thank you about getting back in the water after that shark alert.

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  13. Even more beautiful than I had imagined. I've heard about this walk and have meant to take it, but still haven't. Next time in Sydney for sure.

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  14. This photo brings back some memories. Unfortunately, I visited Bondi in July and it was FREEZING cold! Not the time to try for a beach adventure.

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  15. Holy cow! Was it really that busy when you were there??? It is just as I pictured it to look like too!

    Sorry it took me so long to get over - busy weekend! Thanks so much for linking up with us!!!

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  16. Bondi beach is really a crowded place but I love the beach! I have not tried Bronte but will probably do one of these days. Glad to know you enjoyed your travel!

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  17. What beautiful beaches. Thanks for sharing your amazing pictures that included your gorgeous children.

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  18. Have heard so much about Bondi Beach...hope I can visit one of these days. Great photos and post, Michele!

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  19. That beach was far too crowded for my taste. I would have gone walking to those other beautiful places that you took photos of.

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  20. wow, its beach heaven down there, lot's of eye candy, I'm sure, thanks for linking up today for Travel Photo Mondays, appreciate it!

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